i went surfiiiiiiiiing!
it was pretty rough and i caught a big wave and rode it all the way in! (on my knees, but hey, cut an old-timer a break.) and i was able to paddle out easy and hang out with all the Japanese guys of the sea…(yes, Toshi, tell them i am “di jo boo!”) wait, why was everyone there Japanese???
and most importantly, i overcame that initial moment of fear before running into the ocean to reclaim my love affair with its momentum…
i also realized that i don’t have to be super awesome at everything right away. i did a lot today and i quit before i exhausted myself.
…so tomorrow i stand on the sea!
: photos by Carmen Torres